Crosman's Blue and Rye Turfgrass Seed Mix
Blue and Rye Turfgrass Seed Mix
Close-up of Crosman's Blue and Rye Turfgrass Seed Mix
Crosman Seed Corp.

Crosman's Blue and Rye Turfgrass Seed Mix

A durable, self-repairing blend of Kentucky bluegrass and perennial ryegrass for high-traffic, full-sun lawns.

Built to take a beating — A traffic-tolerant blend of Kentucky bluegrass and perennial ryegrass — the same two species used on most professional athletic fields in cool-season climates, including NFL stadiums, MLS pitches, and college football fields. Ideal for yards with kids and pets, play areas, sports practice spaces, and any high-use lawn. Full sun.

Two species, complementary strengths — Perennial ryegrass germinates in 5–10 days for fast cover and quick divot recovery; Kentucky bluegrass spreads via rhizomes to fill in bare spots and self-repair over time. Together they establish quickly and last.

More bluegrass than the label suggests — At roughly 40% KBG by weight, the actual seedling count skews even more heavily toward bluegrass because KBG seed is much smaller and lighter. That's why a little goes a long way — and why the seeding rate is lower than ryegrass-dominant mixes.

Full Sun
Bag size

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How much to use

Seeding rate & coverage.

New lawn / bare soil
3.0–5.0 lbs / 1,000 sq ft
Overseeding / thin spots
1.5–2.5 lbs / 1,000 sq ft
Roughly half the new-lawn rate
What's inside

Mix composition.

Cultivar Grown % Purity % Germ.
Shamrock Kentucky Bluegrass Oregon 19.86% 85%
Isabel Kentucky Bluegrass Washington 19.64% 85%
Furlong Perennial Ryegrass Oregon 14.91% 90%
Signet Perennial Ryegrass New Zealand 14.75% 90%
Shield Perennial Ryegrass Oregon 14.57% 90%
Nexus GT Perennial Ryegrass Oregon 14.46% 90%

Cultivar names and percentages reflect the current lot. Future lots may contain improved varieties formulated to the same specification.

Quality & testing

What's in the bag.

0.0%
Weed seed
1.77%
Inert matter
0.04%
Other crop
None found
Noxious weeds
Packaged by Crosman Seed Corp., East Rochester, NY.
Planting & care

How to get it established.

When to Plant

Early fall is the ideal window for all cool-season grasses — soil is warm, air is cool, weed pressure is lower, and the lawn has a full cool season to establish before summer heat. Aim for soil temperatures between 50–65°F. Spring is a secondary option.

Watering

Keep the seedbed consistently moist until germination — light watering 1–2 times daily, not heavy soakings. Brief drying during germination can kill emerging seedlings. After establishment, taper to about 1 inch of water per week in deeper, less frequent sessions.

Soil & Fertilizer

Target a soil pH of 6.0–7.0. A starter fertilizer at seeding helps establishment, especially for mixes containing Kentucky bluegrass. Once mature, most cool-season lawns benefit from 2–4 lbs of nitrogen per 1,000 sq ft per year, split across multiple feedings.

Mowing

Mow at 2.5–3.5 inches once established. Keep the mower blade sharp — ryegrass and tall fescue have fibrous leaves that shred under a dull blade. Don't mow until new seedlings are at least 3 inches tall.

A note on cultivars & lot variation

All lots are formulated to the same Crosman's Blue and Rye Turfgrass Seed Mix specification — performance is consistent even when specific cultivar names rotate. The percentages shown in the composition table reflect the current lot; future bags may contain a different lot with substituted improved varieties. The blend type, intended use, and quality standards stay the same.

For orders of multiple bags

When supply spans more than one lot, bags shipped may come from different lots with slightly different cultivar breakdowns. If lot consistency matters for a project — matching an existing lawn, completing a sod repair, or meeting a specific specification — please send a message before ordering so we can confirm current stock and reserve from a single lot when possible.

Questions

Frequently asked.

When's the best time to plant grass seed?

Early fall is the ideal planting window for all cool-season grasses — mid-August to mid-October in most northern climates. Soil is still warm enough for germination, air temperatures are cooling, and competition from summer weeds is dropping. Spring is a secondary option. Summer planting is generally not recommended due to heat stress and aggressive weed competition.

How long until I see germination?

It depends on the species. Perennial ryegrass germinates in 5–10 days. Kentucky bluegrass takes 14–28 days, sometimes longer in cooler conditions. Fine fescue is around 10–14 days. Mixes containing multiple species will show ryegrass first, then fill in with slower species over the following weeks. Don't assume failure until 30+ days have passed.

How often do I water new seed?

Keep the top half-inch of soil consistently moist — light watering 1–2 times per day is better than heavy soakings. Once germinated, taper to deeper and less frequent watering as roots establish. Brief drying during the germination window can kill emerging seedlings, so don't skip days. Once fully established, aim for about 1 inch of water per week.

Can I plant grass seed in the shade?

Some mixes are better suited for shade than others — look for mixes high in fine fescue, the most shade-tolerant cool-season species. No turfgrass thrives in deep shade; even shade-tolerant varieties need at least 3–4 hours of indirect light per day. The sun requirement for this mix is noted in the product details above.

What climate zones is this seed for?

All WillBloom cool-season grass seed mixes are best suited for USDA hardiness zones 3–7 — the northern half of the U.S., the Pacific Northwest, and higher-elevation areas of the South. These are grasses that go dormant in summer heat and thrive in cool springs and falls.

Do I need to prepare the soil before seeding?

For new lawns: loosen the top 2–3 inches of soil, rake smooth, and lightly firm it before seeding. Good seed-to-soil contact is critical — seed left sitting on top of hard or loose soil germinates poorly. For overseeding: mow short, dethatch if needed, and overseed into the existing turf. A starter fertilizer at seeding time helps in both cases.